Window installation procedure -Silpruf method

I've been working through the side and door windows using the Silpruf method I mentioned in my last post.  I really like how its turning out so I thought I would document the process in a little more detail in case I want to use this in the future.  If somebody else is reading this I highly recommend you watch the video's at least once and then feel free to use the checklist I created below.

First, you need a few items.

• SCS2000 Silpruf in the color you prefer.  I used black and will probably use 2 tubes for all 5 windows.
• Popsicle sticks.  I cut these into thirds to act as "slats" to help hold the window flush with the cabin top.
• rubber gloves...lots of rubber gloves.
• plastic squeegee.  Cut into about a 1" edge size.
• dry erase markers.  Thin edge and best get a few.  I bought a 4 pack on Amazon.
• Permatex Ultra black RTV (black because I was using black Silpruf)
• 1/4" masking tape.  (couldn't find the link to what I purchased)

Checklist

 Trim window with a 3/16" gap between edge of glass and recess wall
 Sand top edge of glass to form 1/16" rounded edge. 
 Sand edge of glass with 300 grit to make a defect free edge
 Drill cleco holes in recess to support window in opening.  Approximately every 4-5"
 Install window and mark inside edge surface of window where the recess wall ends (with erasable marker.)
 Remove window and place outside face down on a white towel.
 Apply 1 layer of tape about 1/8"-3/16" from inside edge of line just created.  This is done with 1" tape or larger.
 Apply first layer of 1/4" masking  tape such that it leaves the line  fully visible.
 Write a small number 2 on the top end of the tape.
 Wipe dry erase line off of window with damp cloth. 
 Apply second layer of 1/4" masking  tape such that it covers the outside edge of the first layer of 1/4" masking tape by about 1/16".  Mark the end of this tape with a number 1.
 Sand inside surface of the window where it will be glued to the frame.  This helps the Silpruf adhere.
 Tape the outside surface of the window and back cut to form nice edges.  2" tape is good for this step.
 Glue small Silpruf standoffs at each cleco hole (using ultra black RTV)
 Apply a layer of Silpruf to the exposed inside edge of the window.
 Remove 1/4" masking tape marked with a #1.
 Let sit for 24 hours.
 Fit window to recess by trimming the Silpruf standoffs until window is flush with exterior surface.  Trimming the Silpruf standoffs with an angle cut seems to work well here.
 Tape the outside edge of the window recess such that the exterior surface and the wall of the recess are covered.
 Tape the inside edge of the window recess and back cut the tape to provide a smooth edge 
 Ensure all exposed areas that might get Silpruf on them are protected with tape or paper.
 Drill out cleco holes if inside tape covered any of them.
 Apply a thin layer of Silpruf to edge of window that was revealed when tape #1 was removed.
 Apply generous bead of Silpruf to the window recess.
 Install and cleco window with clean wood straps.
 Using small squeegee clean the excess Silpruf from both sides of the window.  Leave the 3/16" gap empty for now.
 Remove tape marked #2.
 Remove cleco's one at a time pulling up the tape that protects the Cabin top.  Clean out under the wood slat, install clean slat and then reinstall the cleco.  Do this for all cleco's.
 Let sit for at least 48 hours before removing cleco's.

Here are a few pictures of the process.  Some of these have already been posted on this blog.

Trimming window to fit recess opening.  Note the 3/16" gap around the edge of the window.

Fitting window with Popsicle stick pieces to keep it flush with the surface of the cabin top.

Small Silpruf standoffs glued to the cabin top at each cleco hole using Permatex Ultra black RTV.

Outside edge of window taped off and back cut flush with the window edge.  Its actually not flush because I held the razor at an angle so that the 1/16" rounded top edge would not be covered.

Inside surface of window with all three layers of tape as well as the gluing surface sanded with 120 grit for adhesion purposes.

Last layer of tape with the #1 annotated on the end that I will use to pull the tape up.

Outside surface taped and fiberglass protection.  As noted in my blog post I need to add more protection to the top edge as I found my hand touching the fiberglass during the clean up.  

Window installed after applying a generous bead of Silpruf and then cleaning out the excess squeeze out.  In this picture I have also completed the step where the cabin protection tape layer has been removed and the Popsicle sticks replaced.

Inside edge after cleanup/smoothing and tape #2 removal.  I could have removed the green tape as well here but I left it in place so that the Silpruf would dry and it would be less messy to remove.

Final look of window after 2 days of cure time.  Note the nice clean lines on the inside edge of the window.  The outside edge with the 3/16" gap looks messy now but after paint is applied I will come back and fill this gap in with a fresh batch of Silpruf.

Left fuel tank - Sealing process described in detail with photo's

Tonight I took a few extra pictures of the sealing process I use (not easy to do with very sticky rubber gloves on).  Van's recommends that you buy two orders of sealant (about a quart total) to complete the RV-10 fuel tanks.  So far I have completed the right fuel tank with the left tank well on its way and I've used maybe 1/2 of the first batch.  So, I assume they expect that you will use far more than I think is necessary. 

Below are some step by step pictures and description of how I am sealing the tanks.  Granted this is only one part (the fuel cap flange) but the steps apply to all mating surfaces.  The idea is to get two barriers of sealant so that if one fails the second will prevent fuel leaks.  Some areas this is not really possible but in most it is.

End ribs with fuel penetrations installed/sealed

First step is to get the tools out.  This is a 10cc syringe that I use as a mini caulking gun.  Oh, and lots of rubber gloves...

Syringe loaded up with enough Sealant for tonight's sealing steps.  Tonight I installed the fuel cap flange and the drain flange.

There are really only a couple of places that fuel can get out on this fuel cap flange.   Past the skin/opening interface and past the rivets.  In this picture you can see that I put a bead of sealant around both the outer and the inner rings to act as double barriers for the first situation.

Its not really visible in this picture but this batch of sealant prevents the fuel from leaking past the rivet holes.  This is a bead of sealant around each dimple.  The fuel flange will sit on top of this area.

Each rivet needs to be sealed as well so in this picture I am dabbing sealant into each dimple on the outside of the skin using a q-tip twirled in sealant.  This is done just before I put the rivets in place.

Rivets pushed into place and the area around the rivets is gently cleaned up with MEK so that the tape used to hold the rivets in place (and protect the skin while back riveting) sits tight against the rivets and skin.

Then the fuel flange laid on top of the skin with the rivets poking through the holes.  Notice that there is already a bead of sealant showing up around the outer edge.  Thats barrier #1.  The rivet sealant is barrier #2.  Each opening actually has two barriers of sealant on them so that if one fails the second should prevent leaks.

And finally this is the "cap" of sealant that I place on top of the shop head of each rivet after it has been set.  This acts as the second barrier for the rivet holes.

This is the drain flange inside the fuel tank with the sealant cap applied.

And this is the outside of the same drain flange.  If you look close you will see sealant around each rivet as well as the edge of the flange.  This is after I had used some MEK to clean up the excess sealant that squeezed out.